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My torch casts a feeble glow into the black; mist rises from the water like ghosts.On the other side, Pauline, her Lao project supervisor, and I start for Ban Natane.But the villages on the other side remain largely unknown, rural, and poor.“I’ll be staying in the biggest village, Ban Natane.They can also facilitate your return journey; remember, you’ll need to pay the 100,000 kip boat fare again.ENTERING KONG LO CAVE the next morning is like entering a mouth — stalactites like teeth, and the feeling that you’re going inside, riding inside, the body of the earth, organs frozen rock-hard.You’ll pay 60,000 kip for the bus, while the will cost 25,000 kip.

All local buses running between destinations such as Vientiane and Paksan, and Savannakhet and Pakse, stop at the junction.

Coming from the south, your easiest base is Tha Khaet, where MY JOURNEY FROM Vientiane ends up being rather smooth — a touch over seven hours, with only one bus breakdown.

I arrive in Ban Na Hin, drop my bag at one of the guesthouses that line the town’s one main road, fuel up on some noodle soup. The boat ride through the cave costs 100,000 kip, so I want to find fellow travelers to share the fare.

My cheap thongs having broken in the river’s strong current, so I walk the 2km dirt road to the village barefoot.

The earth is warm, pitted with deep ruts, raised by tree roots.

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